Computer Hardware - Guide to the PC Hardware

Well, it’s been maybe a month since Intel released its X48 motherboard chipset as its top-of-the-line, flag ship chipset. Starting out, predictably, at pretty high prices ranging anywhere from $250 to $340 depending on whether the motherboard uses DDR2 or DDR3, the X48’s have gradually settled in as a favorable motherboard chipset. And as DDR3 RAM prices continue to plummet, the X48’s abundance in future machines grow at a slow but sure rate.

The Intel X38 motherboards are also continually growing in popularity as prices continue to decrease at a pleasant rate. The X38’s can now be recommended even for people with budgets between low- and mid-budgets, somewhere in the vicinity of $800 to $950. X38’s still support DDR2, so that is one of its reasons for its popularity. The other reason is the fore-mentioned growing popularity of DDR3 RAM. Many X38’s also support DDR3 RAM, so it is more likely to gain more popularity through DDR3 RAM.

Now, that leaves us with the old but trusty P35’s. You now might wonder: Are they still valuable? Will they still be used as abundantly as they used to be before the release of the X38 and X48 Intel Chipset Motherboards?

Well, they will still be valuable, but will be targeted naturally at more low-budget computer builders. As X38’s and X48’s become more abundant, the prices of the P35 motherboards will also decrease, because there are now newer, better chipsets. The P35 will continue to exist as an excellent chipset with excellent features, but will now retire to the lower-budget field. That does not necessarily mean it has lost its overall value. It simply has inherently shifted its position in the market.

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What time is it? One of the commonest questions uttered around the World but what exactly are we asking? You ask someone in China what the time is then you will certainly get a different answer if you ask an American, obviously their time-zones are on the opposite side of the world.

But what if you ask two people in the same room as you? You may get the same answer from them both but then again one person’s watch may be a minute or two faster.

When we ask the time then what we are really asking for is a rough estimate for the time zone that we are in. Some watches are more accurate than others but it is often enough for our day to day needs.

But what if you need to know the exact time and what if you need to know what that time is another country too. Perhaps you have bought an airline ticket; it would be disappointing to turn up at the airport only to be told that your ticket was sold to somebody else in as the clock at their travel agent was slower than the one where you bought your ticket.

So how does global industry keep accurate time with one another? The answer is quite simple and it is called Coordinated Universal Time or UTC.

The International Bureau of Weights and Measures (BIPM) acts as the official time-keeper for the globe and started UTC in 1972 after the development of atomic clocks.

The atomic clock was first developed in the late 50’s when it was discovered the atom caesium-133 resonates at an exact frequency of 9,192,631,770 every second. This frequency was so exact that atomic clocks developed an accuracy of one second in 1.4million years and The International System of Units defined the second as the frequency of the caesium-133 atom and an international unit for measuring time was born.

However, atomic clocks are even more accurate than the Earth itself which is actually slowing in its rotation. This slowing is only small but if the standard system of time, UTC, didn’t compensate for it, eventually midnight would fall in the middle of the day (although that would take a millennia or two) so leap seconds are added every few years to compensate.

The only problem with UTC timepieces is that atomic clocks are enormous in both size and cost. In fact they are generally only to be found in large scale physics laboratories such as NPL (National Physics Laboratory, UK) or MIT (Massachusetts Institute of Technology, US).

Then how does the rest of the world keep track of UTC time? The time told on these vast atomic clocks is broadcast via radio broadcasts or the GPS satellite system (Satellite Navigation is reliant on UTC as without it a satellite can’t tell exactly where a receiver is).

Most computer networks are sycnhronised to UTC time either over the Internet (which isn’t secure and only recommended for home users) or through specialist GPS or radio time servers. These time servers make use of NTP (Network Time Protocol) which has been developed over the last 25 years to keep computer networks synchronized so they do not have to rely on their inaccurate internal clocks.

NTP servers and UTC have allowed industry to become truly global and made possible technologies such as communication satellites, mobile phones, sat-nav and ATM’s that we all take for granted.

Copyright 2008 © Richard N Williams

Richard N Williams is a technical author and a specialist in the telecommunications and network time synchronisation industry helping to develop dedicated time server products; ethernet clocks, GPS time servers, NTP servers, digital wall clocks, atomic clock servers and SNTP time servers. Please visit us for more information about NTP products and NTP servers

This article may be republished and reprinted in its complete form or in part without seeking permission providing a relevant link to this site is maintained. It is a violation of copyright law to reprint or publish this content without following these terms.

USB connectors are used by input devices (mice, keyboards, scanners, digital cameras), output devices (portable CD writers, printers), storage devices (external hard disk drives, flash or USB memory keys/sticks) and even decorations and novelty items such as mobile phone chargers, flashing light snowmen, coffee cup warmers and mini reading lights.

Let’s take a look at some of the things to look for in the USB world.

Plugs and cables

Not all USB plugs are created equal. It’s likely that your computer will accept ‘type A’ plugs, but the other end that plugs into your camera or printer may be a ‘type B’, a ‘mini’ or a ‘micro’ USB plug. Ensure that your cable has the correct plugs for your device on both ends. And if your USB cable seems a little short, you can buy extension cables but you may need a special ‘booster’ if you want to go over 5 metres or 15 feet.

Power

Devices can draw a low power current through a 5 volt supply to the USB connection; however this may not be sufficient for high powered devices like external hard drives. Multiple USB devices on one computer can experience performance problems and errors if their combined power requirement is too great. ‘Powered hubs’ are available which provide additional USB connections and an external power source, though some devices may still need their own power supply (e.g. printers).

Storage

After starting out with a capacity of 4 floppy disks, USB storage devices (’flash’ drives or USB keys) can now hold over 4,000 times that amount, with capacities currently hitting 16 GB. Flash drive designs range from options like lanyard attachments to crystal studded drives that can be worn as jewellery. But if you are worried about transporting your important files on such a small, easily lost device, consider security features like encryption or a fingerprint reader.

Many MP3 players are now the size of a flash drive and provide song file storage through their USB connection, but also have special software installed to allow the song files to be played.

Speed

Like a traditional hard disk drive, flash drive performances can vary so if you are transferring large amounts of data you will want a fast read and write speed. A fast speed also allows you to use your flash drive as extra memory for Windows Vista, speeding up the performance of your PC when you need it. Readyboost won’t work on slower performing flash drives.

Also, make sure your computer and all USB devices adhere to the more recent ‘USB 2.0′ standard, which has a faster transfer rate than the original ‘USB 1.1′ specification.

Nick Roche is the National Director of Computer Troubleshooters Australia, part of the worlds Largest IT Service Franchise with over 450 location in 25 countries across the Globe. Specialising in supporting IT for Small Business & Home Offces. For your local Computer Troubleshooter see your country website;

Australia - http://www.comptroub.com.au
USA - http://www.comptroub.com/us
For all other countries visit - http://www.comptroub.com

If your computer is acting up, chances are it may need a new power supply or motherboard.In this article you’ll learn how to replace these parts.

Most computer cases come with a power supply; however, in some cases it is not included, it may be necessary to purchase one separately.

The power supply is a metal box and it supplies low voltage power to the various circuits inside the computer. It also has a fan inside to keep it cool.

The power supply has 4 to 7 connectors that will plug into the mother board and disk drives.Orient the power supply with its fan so that the fan faces the back of the system case, and place into position.

Fasten it to the case with screws using a non-magnetic screwdriver only! You are now ready to install the motherboard, also known as a main or system board.
There are 2 types, depending on what system you want to build.
The AT socket 7 and the ATX module slot 1 each using their own power supply and case.

If you are upgrading your present system you’ll want to make a diagram of all connections before you remove them.

Carefully remove each expansion card from it’s slot, it will be secured by a single screw.
It’s ok to seesaw the card end-to-end slightly to loosen it, but don’t bend the card sideways.
Set the cards on the power supply with paper separating them.
Leave all cables connected.
After making your diagram remove all cables to the motherboard.
Locate and remove all mounting screws.

Now you are ready to install the new motherboard.
Using the hardware that came with your computer case you will mount the motherboard.

Orient the board so that the power supply sockets are facing the back right corner.
Mount brass and plastic standoffs in the case to match the holes in the board.
Secure the motherboard with screws using non-magnetic screwdrivers only!
For an AT style board connect the two power supply cables to the motherboard.
The black wires go in the center next to each other.
Tilt the connectors away from the power supply and align the hooks on the connectors with the space on the sockets between the metal prongs and the back of the sockets.
Tilt connectors toward the power supply until they are vertical and slide them down over the prongs.
For an ATX style you will only have 1 connector.

Your new motherboard comes with disk drive cables; these are the flat Grey cables with a dotted colored edge, usually red. There are cables for a hard disk drive and a floppy disk drive.
The hard disk drive cable is wider than the floppy disk drive cable.
If you are replacing your current motherboard use your original cables.

If you look closely at your motherboard you will notice that all connectors are marked in white lettering.

Insert the wider hard drive cable in to the PRIMARY IDE socket, the colored edge will go near pin # 1.

Insert the floppy drive cable into the floppy disk drive socket, the colored edge will also go near pin # 1.

There are several wires coming from the computer case, these wires lead to the indicator lights and the speaker.

If you are using an ATX case power supply and motherboard you will have an additional wire that’s marked P S for power switch. This wire will plug directly in to the ATX motherboard.

If you’re working with an AT style, plug the lead for the power supply directly into the power switch in the computer case.

The remaining wires are marked on their connectors as follows:

TURBO LED
TURBO SWITCH
SPEAKER
RESET
KEYLOCK
And IDE or HD for HARD DRIVE
These wires connect to their associated sockets on your motherboard.

If You Find This Article Useful, Please Link To It!

Want to learn more about building and upgrading computers?
Pick up a copy of our DVD, “Anyone Can Build Or Upgrade Personal Computers” available at, http://mmrproductions.com/

About The Author;

Manuel Rose is a long time Computer enthusiast, entrepreneur, and video producer.

Is your computer too slow or too old?

Then maybe It’s time for an upgrade!

You may even want to build a new computer.

I am going to show you how you can build and/or upgrade your very own personal computer, at a fraction of what it would cost to purchase a fully assembled system from a leading manufacturer.

I’d like to make some suggestions as to where you can get the necessary parts to build your computer.

Catalog ordering is a very good way to get parts & accessories and in most cases they’ll be friendly knowledgeable people to assist you with your purchase.

Just make sure you deal with a reputable business.

Another great place to go is your local computer show.

Many bargains can be found there especially when you buy with cash.

You can also check out computer & electronic stores.

Wherever you get your computer parts & accessories, make sure you shop around for the best deals and get the manufacturers written warranties.

The tools you will need are 1 (one) Phillips and 2 (two) Flathead non-magnetic screwdrivers.

Before you begin I want to tell you that electronic circuits are static sensitive so there are a few precautions you must observe.

Keep circuit boards in their antistatic bags until they are ready to be installed.

Before handling components discharge your body’s static electric charge by touching a grounded surface.

A good way to do this is to plug the computer case into an outlet and touch any unpainted part of the metal.

When handling circuit boards.

Avoid touching any components on the boards and connectors that plug into the expansion slots.

Hold them by their edges and/or any metal mounting hardware on the circuit board.

Never slide boards over any surface as they can sustain irreversible damage.

Avoid plastic, vinyl, Styrofoam, furs and carpet in your work area.

You should wear a grounding wrist strap.

Make sure all components are at room temperature.

There are a few types of compatible personal computers (also known as PC’s).

They are as follows:

Older models referred to as AT socket 7, and newer ATX slot 1 type models.

The SOCKET 370 is another type which is similar in appearance to the old socket 7 but with speeds in excess of 1 GHZ and beyond.

Make sure you purchase a case, power supply, motherboard and CPU that are compatible with each other.

Ask your sales person to be sure.

OPENING THE CASE.

If you are upgrading your present system make a diagram of the cable connections in the back of the system unit so you can replace them correctly when you are finished.

First you must ground yourself by touching the unpainted metal chassis.

Then unplug the A/C electrical cord and any other cables that may be connected.

By looking at the back of the unit, locate approximately 6 screws on the outer edges and remove them.

Older tower systems have a plastic cover on the back; you will have to pry it off with a screwdriver first to get to the screws.

To remove the cover on tower and mini desktop systems, slide the cover back and up.

On an old desktop system, turn the computer around to face you and slide the cover forward.

Be careful not to catch it onto any cables inside the system.

Set the cover aside, keeping all screws together in a container.

To reassemble, just reverse this procedure after replacing the necessary components.

If You Find This Article Useful, Please Link To It!

Want to learn more about building and upgrading computers?

Pick up a copy of our DVD, “Anyone Can Build Or Upgrade Personal Computers” available at, http://mmrproductions.com/

About The Author;

Manuel Rose is a long time Computer enthusiast, entrepreneur, and video producer.

A while back I wanted to write an e-book about what it takes for the average person or small business owner to setup their own server then create a domain for security and sharing of resources.

I have a nice server and some spare drives so I decide to pull out the ‘good’ drives and put in the spare drives and load it up. All the while doing this I was making screen shotsof my progress. When I was done I removed the experiment drives and inserted the ‘good’ drives. Oppps, I for got that I had changed the SCSI controller. This mistake wiped the ‘good’ drives clean. Yup, lost it all.

Now as a long time Windows System Admin and knowing about virtual computers this did not dawn on me.

In the past I have used Virtual Computers or Virtual Machines (as VM Ware calls them) but before the Core 2 Duo processor running a Virtual Computer or a Virtual Machines on a desktop or a laptop would take all the processing power that even a P4 running at 3 GHz could muster. So it didn’t even cross my mind about using a Virtual Machines to do this experiment.

Since then I have tried two different Virtual Computers, VM Ware and VitrualBox and I am here to tell you that the dual processor setup will run more than one Virtual Machines at the same time with little or no drag on the system resources.

I setup two different Virtual Machine’s one VM Ware and one VirtualBox and ran them both at the same time, I also had my normal desktop items open at the same time. My new computer with a Core 2 Duo 2.4 GHz and two gig of memory did not even blink.

Another thing that I like about using a Virtual Machines for testing is if it gets so bad that it blue screens or fails to start you just delete it and create a new Virtual Machines and then back to what you were doing. Or you can do your troubleshooting with the Virtual Machines, have to restart, no problem while it is restarting read an email, surf the web, or do something else.

So if you are a developer, an experimenter, or just want to test out a different Operating System I would suggest you jump on the internet and grab a copy of these programs and stop trashing a perfectly good Operating System installation.

Monte Russell with over 20 years experience, AAS degree, MCSE, CNA, A+, and hardware certificates. The free monthly newsletter at:http://www.diy-computer-repair.com/newsletter-signup.html always intriguing, full of insights about computing. Read more about this article at http://www.diy-computer-repair.com/virtual-computers.html

So you are considering expanding the internet within your home or office. You’ve decided to create a network that will allow you greater access to the web. The question now is what kind of network do you want to put in. Do you want the freedom of a wireless network, or do you want the security and reliability of a wired network. Both networks can provide you with great service and expandability, but each one varies in size, reliability, cost and speed. It’s now just a matter of picking through the pro’s and con’s of both to see which one suites you the best.

The wired network has been around for some time. In the world of technology you could say it’s been around for ages, probably as long as the internet its self. The majority of people see a wired network as being the more secure of the two options. They also offer fantastic transfer speeds. Meaning, that sending files from one computer to the next tend to be faster on a wired network than a wireless one.

The security of the wired network has long been it’s strong suite. They provide strong barriers to keep users far from the grasps of malicious hackers and the such. The only way that a person could get into your network is through the external internet connection, before it comes into the home. This as you can imagine would be extremely difficult and eliminates almost 100% of malicious users from your network. The only other possible way for a malicious user to get onto your network, is by connecting directly to your router or switch. However, this is not only difficult because of the obvious, but these attacks can often be averted by the use of firewalls or complicated routers with heavy security.

There are downfalls to the wired network, and for some, these shortcoming outweigh any benefits in speed or security. Wired networks contain one of technologies biggest growing problems, wires! People are struggling with so many wires and power cords these days that some are reluctant to add any more to their homes. Wired networks contain many wires, as you could well assume. And these wires usually need to cross through rooms and floors to reach the desired locations. This means a lot of clutter for the usual home owner. Unless the home owner is willing to shovel out big bucks to hide the wires, or has the wires installed as the home is being built, this problem will be a tangled and messy one. For this reason, wired networks are more often found in the office environment. Here, roof panels can easily be removed to run cables across the ceiling to different rooms and locations.

Other issues afflicting the wired network are, difficulty coping with growth. If you want to add a new computer to your network you have to run a new cable from your router to your computer. This as you can image can be a real pain. Also replacing faulty wiring can be extremely hard to do. If you have your cables running through the walls finding, removing and replacing a faulty cable can be time consuming and expensive. And last all a wired network is restricted. If you want to serf the web while watching T.V. you better have run a cable to your recliner. In such a network the users are required to be wherever it is that the cable pokes out of the wall. So most home owners turn to the wireless network, to create a network with ease and access throughout the house. All this without the mess and restriction of cables.

Wireless networks may be a little slower and less secure, but technology is catching up. Current wireless routers provide faster and faster speeds, and all this with increased protection. Often times the lack of security isn’t the fault of the router or hub, but of the user. People tend to be ignorant when it comes to security for their wireless network. Users tend to leave their networks open to attack by not putting up the firewalls provided by the router. This lapse of security makes wireless networks easy targets for malicious user. However, by simply consulting your owners manual, you should be able to put up the appropriate barriers to keep your network safe.

Probably the best feature of wireless networks is the freedom. Gone are all the burdensome wires and trip hazards. Users can breath an untangled sigh of relief and relish in the open spaces of their wireless network. Now you an shop online while watching your favorite t.v. show. Or you can watch your favorite show streamed to your computer while you eat lunch in the kitchen.

Unfortunately, the freedom isn’t absolute. Wireless networks do have restrictions that limit their range and effectiveness. Wire free networks can be limited by a couple of factors. The thickness of the walls plays an important factor in providing a strong signal to every inch of the house or office. Thick walls or floors often mean you’ll get a weak signal or no signal at all. Their is technology out there that can significantly boost your signal. So if you live in a robust house or apartment you should look into these add ons as a possibility.

Both wired and wireless networks come with their blessings and curses. Which is right for you depends on where the network will be located and what purposes it will serve. In most cases home owners go for wireless networks and offices tend to go wired. But this is slowly changing as people continue to move towards the convenience of wireless networks.

Marc Jenson is an author who writes on a variety of subject. From personal advice to technical jargon, Jenson knows what to say and how to say it.

The 680i NVidia motherboard, which was released a little over a year ago, was released as NVidia’s flagship motherboard. With 3 PCIe, PCI, and PCIe x1 slots, and its potential for graphics-based computers, the 680i SLI motherboard was one of the top motherboards indeed. For example, we will take the EVGA 680i SLI motherboard. It was extremely overclockable, same general features as the other 680i motherboards, and with a pretty nice price tag, the EVGA 680i SLI was one of the top motherboards on the list in its time. However, its ultimate downfall came when news was released that it is not compatible with Penryn Quad CPU’s. Ultimately, that ended its age.

After the “death” of the 680i SLI motherboard, NVidia released the new 780i SLI motherboard. This motherboard still utilized the older DDR2 RAM slots rather than the DDR3 RAM slots, and had the basic features of its predecessor, the 680i motherboard. However, the added advantage of the 780i motherboard was that it was more overclockable, and it officially supported all of the Penryn CPU’s, both dual- and quad-core CPU’s. The 780i is also the first NVidia motherboard to officially offer Tri-SLI options. This is the same thing as SLI, except now you can connect 3 GPU’s with a single bridge to maximize performance. However, there were still 2 mistakes that NVidia made: no official support for 1600MHz CPU’s and the fact that it still utilized DDR2 RAM. If NVidia released this motherboard as an enthusiast product, I believe that the 780i should be compatible with more enthusiast components.

Now comes the 790i Ultra motherboard. Released a couple weeks ago by NVidia, this was truly an enthusiast motherboard: basic features of the 780i motherboard, now with even more overclockability, more performance efficiency, added heatsinks around the CPU for the user to push the motherboard to its very edge, official support of DDR3 RAM, and last but not least, official support for 1600MHz FSB CPU’s. This motherboard was also built under NVidia’s ESA standard… put simply, it’s basically saying that all parts of the motherboard are made of the highest-class quality components so that motherboards last longer, and lets the user push the motherboard to its edge. But again, this is an ENTHUSIAST MOTHERBOARD. This is not meant for most mid-budget computer builders. It will not be worth it.

To read more articles on computer hardware, visit http://www.ImIcarus.com

:: The need for fiber optic couplers

We use electronic couplers all the time: such as a telephone coupler which lets you connect both a telephone and a fax machine to the same telephone line. Or a CATV coupler which lets you connect several TV sets to a single cable from Comcast. Basically you can buy these couplers from Home Depot or other electronic retailers.

Optical couplers have the same functionality as electronic couplers: They split the signal to multiple points(devices). Fiber optic couplers are needed for tapping(monitoring the signal quality) or more complex telecommunication systems which require more than simple point-to-point connections, such as ring architectures, bus architectures and star architectures.

:: Passive couplers and active couplers

Fiber optic couplers can be either active or passive devices. The difference between active and passive couplers is that a passive coupler redistributes the optical signal without optical-to-electrical conversion. Active couplers are electronic devices that split or combine the signal electrically and use fiber optic detectors and sources for input and output.

:: The difference between electronic couplers and fiber optic couplers

Electronic couplers are easy to make because electric current flows as long as you have physical contact between conductors. But optical signal is in a completely different domain. You have to align the tiny optical fiber cores precisely (9um for single mode and 50um or 62.5um for multimode fibers), so there won’t be a huge power loss when you split the signal.

:: Understanding fiber optic coupler types

Fiber optic coupler types are often defined by their input and output port numbers. They are designed to fulfill different applications.

1. T couplers

T couplers are also called Y couplers which is based on their look. T couplers are three port device with one input and two output ports. One major application is tapping(power monitoring): the input power is split to 5% and 95% respectively on the two outputs. The 5% port is connected to system monitoring hardware to monitor the line quality. Another major application is to split the input to two equal outputs.

2. Tree couplers

Tree couplers usually take one input and split it into multiple (more than two) outputs. Tree couplers can also be used backward (bidirectional) as a combiner. Multiple output signals (now function as the input actually) are combined to a single input (now as the output actually).

3. Star couplers

Star couplers are different from tree couplers because they have multiple inputs and multiple outputs. The fibers radiate from the central point likes a star. They often have same number of inputs and outputs (although not always the case).

4. wavelength selective couplers

Wavelength selective couplers are actually WDM (wavelength division multiplexer). They split the signal not based on their power but rather based on their wavelengths. The input signal has several wavelength channels(such as 1510nm, 1520nm, 1530nm, 1540nm and 1550nm, etc). The wavelength selective coupler then routes each wavelength to a different output port.

:: Fiber optic coupler manufacturing technologies

There are majorly three types of manufacturing technologies for fiber optic coupler: micro optics, fused-fiber and planar waveguide.

Micro optics technologies use individual optic elements such as prism, mirrors, lens etc to construct a optical route which functions as a coupler. This is a expensive approach and not as popular as the other two types.

Fuse-fiber couplers use the most basic material - optical fibers. Multiple fiber cores are melted together which let light transmit among them.

Planar waveguides are more like semiconductors. A planar wafer is used to make waveguide couplers. They are more often used for high port count couplers such as 12, 24, and 36 output ports.

Colin Yao is an expert on fiber optic technologies and products. To learn even more about fiber optic couplers, fiber optic polishing and fiber optic cable, visit Fiber Optics For Sale Co. web site.

Surge protectors are often the last thing most people buy when setting up a new computer system. Computer? Check! Flat panel monitor? Check! Printer? Check! Now to plug everything in. Oops, you don’t have enough outlets for all the different power plugs. Not to worry, you’ll just nip out to the local retail store and grab a cheap power strip.

STOP right there… By using a power strip (a fancy extension cord) in place of surge protector you are setting yourself up to accidentally damage your computer.

A surge protector has two functions. Like a power strip, it provides extension outlets for your devices but its main job is to minimize the damage caused by random power fluctuations called power surges.

What is a power surge?

A surge is any short-lived high voltage pulse that is above the normal 120 volts standard in US homes and offices. Power surges only last a few nanoseconds (1/100 of a seconds or less) but in that short time, they can easily damage the internal parts of your computer. Uncontrolled, a surge can either smoke a part outright or shorten its useful life from years to months.

One way to think of it is to imagine that electricity “flows” like water. And like water, electricity can placed under “pressure” in this case called “voltage”.

So see, the higher the voltage, the higher the “electrical pressure”. And like water pipes in winter, the micro circuits inside your PC can become overloaded and “burst”.

What causes them?

Power companies have done lots of research in this area and they have discovered that are two main types of electrical fluctuations: internal (inside the house), external (outside the house). Let’s look at the causes of those inside the home or office first.

According to research 80% of all surges occur from devices located inside your home or office. The biggest villains are air conditioner systems, and refrigerators. Both have large electrical motors that routinely shut off and then “surge” back on.

It’s this “power on” that causes all those surges, spikes and blinking or flickering lights. Other “motor monsters” are hair dryers, power tools and computer printers.

External sources are caused by vehicle accidents involving utility poles, small animals falling into transformers, lightning strikes, construction boo-boos, fallen or swaying tree limbs, blackouts and wind or ice storms. As you can see picking a good surge protector is very important to the long term health of your PC.

What to look for in surge protector…

Choosing the right protector is easy with a few simple tips. People often think that power “surges”, “spikes” and “blinks” or “flickers” are all the same. To the layman they close enough to be “kissing cousins” but technically the differences are important.

A surge lasts as long ad 3 nanoseconds while a spike lasts from 1-2. A blink or flicker is less than even that. A cheap protector may cover minor blinks and spikes.

But in order to protect your computer, you should get one that can handle a true surge. So look for one with at least an Underwriters Lab’s rating of “UL1449″ and labeled “Transient Voltage Surge Protector”. Now don’t get sticker shock here. You do get what you pay for when comes to surge protectors.

Hey, come on, it would be foolish to try and protect a $1000 computer system with $10 piece of junk, wouldn’t it? Now no surge protector will protect a system from the millions of volts created by a direct hit from lightning but a good protector will safeguard your system from most ordinary day-to-day power problems.

What you should do now…

In this article you learned what power surges were and how they can damage your system. What needs to be done now is for you to junk all those wimpy power strips you have all over the house and replace them with “UL1449″ rated surge protectors to get the maximum life out of your computer and other electronic devices.

Tired of computer headaches? Stop wasting your time and money on that “computer repair guy” and get quick access to more useful computer hardware tips, at http://www.fixcomputerproblemsguide.com From Chancer Reese - The Small Office Tech Diva.